How to Sell a House with a Bad Yard: Grab the Garden Gloves and Get to Work

When it comes to showing your house for sale: “As long as the grass is green and all one level, then you should be in good shape,” says top-selling Harvest, Alabama, real estate agent Corey Gilmore who has a decade of industry experience.

2. Fertilize, the right way, on a schedule

Throwing down fertilizer at the wrong time or for the wrong reasons is like throwing money down the drain. Hiring a professional to fertilize your lawn will cost you on average $50-100 per visit, while a 50-pound bag of high-quality lawn fertilizer, which covers between 5,000 and 10,000 square feet, ranges from $100 to $600. If you have the time to spare, or a tight budget and decide to go the DIY route, pay attention to these factors:

• The right day: Applying fertilizer right before a downpour will wash the nutrients you just spread right out of the ground. Look at your weather forecast and try to fertilize the lawn during a stretch of rainless days. Using a slow-release fertilizer, you can gently water the lawn a few days after application.
• Time of year and type of grass: If your lawn is comprised of cool-season grasses, you’ll want to fertilize it at least once in the early fall or late summer, since these varieties are grown in the winter. Cool-season grasses include Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, bentgrass, tall fescue, and fine fescue.

Warm-season grasses are less active in the winter, so you’ll want to fertilize them at least once in the early summer. Warm-season grasses include Bermuda grass, St. Augustine, zoysia, centipede, and buffalo grass.

• Frequency: If you’ve got a pristine lawn, you can get away with fertilizing the grass annually. Most lawns should be fertilized at least twice a year, ideally once around Memorial Day, and again near Labor Day. If your lawn is in dire need of help, you might consider fertilizing it more frequently.

If you plan to put your home on the market in the spring, you can start fertilizing the lawn as early as mid-April. With the soil warm enough, you should see results within a few weeks, and can even do a second feeding in mid-May if you’re looking for an even lusher lawn.

Fertilizing your lawn will go a long way toward improving the grass, but it’s not as simple as just dumping a bag of powder on patchy grass. Keep these best practices in mind:

• Don’t overapply: Putting more of the recommended amount of fertilizer down won’t make your grass grow faster. In fact, it can burn and kill your lawn. Stick to the suggested amount on the bag and don’t overdo it.
• Start by applying fertilizer around the edges, then work your way in: Overlap each strip a little to make sure the lawn is completely covered, spreading fertilizer up and down the length of the yard.
• Use a spreader: Instead of scattering by hand, a spreader ensures even fertilizer distribution over your lawn.

3. Free the grass clippings

Save time and nourish your lawn with this simple tip: Don’t bag your grass clippings as you mow. Just leave them right where they are on the lawn, recommends industry leaders at Scott, who’ve been in the lawn care game for over 150 years.

The clippings are small, and mostly comprised of water, so they won’t take long to break down and fertilize your lawn. You’ll need to clean up the clippings from your driveway, the neighbor’s driveway, the sidewalk, and any other surrounding hard surfaces. But overall mulching, rather than bagging the clippings, is usually less work.

The only time you’ll want to bag up those clippings is if your lawn is diseased. Bagging and disposing of the clippings will keep the problem from spreading across your lawn.

4. Use lawn repair mix for smaller bare patches

A lawn repair mix, which consists of compost, grass seedlings, and fertilizer, can remedy small patches of grass.

For best results:

1. Remove the dead grass and till or loosen the soil three inches below the ground so the seeds have space to grow.

2. Use a lawn spreader to scatter the mix on the patch. If the patch is small, you can use gloves to spread the mix by hand. The mix should be no more than half an inch thick to prevent overgrowth.

3. Water the patch regularly with low pressure until the seeds start to sprout. Do not overwater the spot, as this could cause the seeds to scatter. Keep it damp but not flooded.

5. Fix bigger bald spots with turfgrass

If your lawn has large, gaping bald spots, laying sod might be the solution. This goes double if you’re in a time crunch. You can sow seeds in large spots, but it takes time and energy, which you might not have if you’re hoping to sell your home soon.

The time saved in purchasing pre-grown grass does come at a cost. The average cost to install sod is between $1,555 per 1,000 square feet. While installation can come at a high price, it only takes about two to three weeks for the sod to root. It’s a fast solution for patchy lawns.

For many, this is a project worth paying for professional installation. If sod is improperly installed, it won’t take long for it to turn brown and die.

6. Get to the bottom of any grub problems, then treat them accordingly

If your lawn is scattered with dead patches, grubs might be to blame. Chafers and beetles largely referred to as lawn grubs, eat grass roots, causing large sections of the lawn to turn brown and die.

But that’s only half the problem. Birds and small animals tearing at your lawn to get to grubs cause further damage. If you pull up your roots to find more than 10 grubs per foot, you likely have an infestation.

To get your grubs under control, you can use a killer and prevention spray on the lawn.

Use the spray, then water the lawn so the product penetrates the soil. Insecticide sprays can be very powerful and dangerous to humans, pets, and children. Wear protective clothing while spraying, and don’t let children or pets on the affected areas of the lawn until the grass has been properly treated. It can take up to 10-14 days for the grubs to die.

Once the grubs have been eradicated, treat the patches on the lawn like any other bald spot.

7. Don’t let weeds run the show

Weeds are unsightly, but not all can be eliminated in the same way. Here’s how to take out three of the most common weeds.

Crabgrass

Crabgrass is distinct for its stems that spread and branch out. Its blades can be blue-green or purple, and varieties are both smooth or hairy to the touch.

Crabgrass thrives in lawns cut under two inches and is more likely to crop up on lawns that are frequently overwatered. You can use a weed spray to kill existing crabgrass but to keep it at bay, you’ll need to remove the weeds from the root, bag them, and keep your grass higher to prevent existing seeds from germination.

Dandelion

Dandelion is most recognizable for its bright yellow flower and fleshy roots. A dandelion’s fluffy heads blow seeds across the lawn, meaning a few dandelions untreated in the yard can quickly lead to a full-blown infestation. These pesky weeds are more likely to thrive on thin lawns.

Dandelion roots can be up to 10 inches deep and will continue to thrive year after year if not treated. Many elect to stay natural, digging up the plant and its root. However, a dandelion-specific spray can also be effective. Spray the plant, wait for it to die, and then easily pull the root system from your lawn.

White Clover

White clover is commonly found on lawns and even used to be included in grass seed mixes. The weed has three leaves and often a small white flower. You’ll find white clover on lawns that are overwatered, but low on nutrients.

You can prevent white clover from spreading by keeping your soil and lawn healthy. Fertilizing the lawn will help other grasses thrive and prevent clover from spreading. To get rid of white clover in your yard, you can pull the plants by hand or use a white clover herbicide.

8. Select the right type of grass variety based on sun, shade, and foot traffic

If you don’t have the right grass for your yard based on region and sun exposure, you could be set up to fail. Find the right grass for your yard based on region, as well as your plant hardiness zone.